Like many subtle, sometimes overlooked things of beauty, the most humble and nondescript can become a masterpiece when superimposed on a background of rich color, flavor and action. In so many still life paintings, for example, the background can be what captures the imagination, bringing the simple, often pedestrian foreground to an otherwise unappreciated life.
So it can be with cod - an under-appreciated example of simplicity. Here a richly flavored and spiced Diablo tomato sauce, full of action, forms a visual and flavorful contrast to soft tender, pillowy clouds of roasted fresh cod. Simple boiled potatoes seem an appropriate sidebar accompaniment, satisfying yet stealing no thunder from the top-billed act.
1 sweet yellow onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 15-oz can petite diced tomatoes, drained, liquid reserved
1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
4 cups fresh baby spinach leaves
Juice and rind of 1/2 lemon
1-1/4 lb Cod fillets
Preheat oven to 400F.
Heat a tablespoon butter in a tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet until butter melts. Add onion and cook onion 10-12 minutes, until beginning to brown and caramelize. Stir often. Add the garlic and cook another 2-3 minutes.
Now add the drained tomatoes and raise heat to high. Add a dash olive oil if necessary. You want tomatoes to sizzle and brown, not boil; this add enormous flavor. Cook for about 5-8 minutes until the tomatoes darken.
Add crushed red pepper flakes and cook another 2-3 minutes.
Add spinach leaves and stir into sauce, until wilted.
Lightly salt and pepper sauce to taste. Stir in lemon juice and rind. Transfer Florentine sauce to an oiled casserole and lay cod fillets on top of sauce.
Spray the fillets with oil and season lightly with salt and pepper to taste.
Roast cod for about 10-12 minutes, until just cooked through and beginning to flake. Be careful not to overcook the fish and dry it out.
Cut fish into four portions and serve on a bed of sauce. Serve with boiled potatoes, if desired.
Serves 4.
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