During a recent visit to Barcelona, I tried half a dozen or so different paellas to get a good sampling of what should be considered a truly good paella.
After sampling one especially good specimen, I had the opportunity one Sunday afternoon (the traditional time to eat paella in Spain), to watch the kitchen staff make dozens of paellas, through a glass window. I studied their approach and was taken by the high art and craft involved.
No chef measured any volumes (I estimated in my mind) - but they adjusted often. A key to their process was the prior preparation of the star actors - chicken, shrimp, clams, etc. There was a stack of prepared paella pans behind the chefs with the prepped key ingredients. After re-warming these prepped pans, and adding rice to toast over high heat and lots of shaking, a vigorous stovetop boiling of added stock from a massive nearby stockpot was used to cook the rice partially. Then a very high oven was used to finish the dish.
This is why Paella has always been daunting to me - this lack of precision worries my analytical, technical brain, which I depend on so much in my day job. But I vowed to return home and practice, practice - until I felt comfortable. I think this recipe summarizes what I have learned and achieved.
Keep in mind that the possibilities for paella are endless - and the debate of what 'real' paella has in it is also endless, and in my opinion, futile.
It's like the Cassoulet - there is no "Vrais Cassoulet" as my mother would opine. These evolved as working class meals using what was on hand, which was not necessarily the same day to day. This is why I call this Arroz con Cosas - Rice with things - of course it is a real paella.
So you have wide prerogative to vary according to what you like and what's available. The most important thing is to actually do it. Don't be a bump on a log, and overcome the fear that it might not turn out perfectly.
There is no perfect, grasshopper. Wax on. Wax off.
After sampling one especially good specimen, I had the opportunity one Sunday afternoon (the traditional time to eat paella in Spain), to watch the kitchen staff make dozens of paellas, through a glass window. I studied their approach and was taken by the high art and craft involved.
No chef measured any volumes (I estimated in my mind) - but they adjusted often. A key to their process was the prior preparation of the star actors - chicken, shrimp, clams, etc. There was a stack of prepared paella pans behind the chefs with the prepped key ingredients. After re-warming these prepped pans, and adding rice to toast over high heat and lots of shaking, a vigorous stovetop boiling of added stock from a massive nearby stockpot was used to cook the rice partially. Then a very high oven was used to finish the dish.
This is why Paella has always been daunting to me - this lack of precision worries my analytical, technical brain, which I depend on so much in my day job. But I vowed to return home and practice, practice - until I felt comfortable. I think this recipe summarizes what I have learned and achieved.
Keep in mind that the possibilities for paella are endless - and the debate of what 'real' paella has in it is also endless, and in my opinion, futile.
It's like the Cassoulet - there is no "Vrais Cassoulet" as my mother would opine. These evolved as working class meals using what was on hand, which was not necessarily the same day to day. This is why I call this Arroz con Cosas - Rice with things - of course it is a real paella.
So you have wide prerogative to vary according to what you like and what's available. The most important thing is to actually do it. Don't be a bump on a log, and overcome the fear that it might not turn out perfectly.
There is no perfect, grasshopper. Wax on. Wax off.
1-1/2 lb meaty chicken wingettes - about 8
garlic powder
onion powder
smokey Spanish pimentos paprika
1 cup short grain rice
2 cups beef stock plus 1 cup water
1 red pepper, diced
1 leek, cleaned and diced
1 clove garlic, minced
Paella spice mix:
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp onion powder
1/2 tsp smokey Spanish pimento paprika
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes or 1/8 tsp ground cayenne pepper
1/4 cup thawed green peas
Preheat oven to 375F. Season chicken wings with garlic onion and paprika. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast wings in a large (12-in) skillet for 15-20 minutes until browned.
Remove chicken wings from pan and set aside. Now preheat oven to 450F.
Meanwhile, sauté the red pepper in the same pan - add a dash of olive oil if necessary. Cook about 3-5 minutes. Now add the leek and 2 tablespoons water. Stir and let the water evaporate as it initially softens the leek. Continue cooking after the water evaporates under medium heat to finish softening the leek.
Now add the broth and water and paella spice mix. Bring to a very vigorous boil over the highest heat.
Remove dish from oven and place on stovetop. Scatter peas on top of dish. Cook over medium-low heat to finish the crusty bottom - called the socarrat - a key aspect of a really good paella. When you hear the dish start crackling, test the rice for doneness and for forming the prized socarrat.
Serves 4-6.
Cook's Note: Note the lack of saffron in this recipe. Contrary to what you hear a lot, and what I expected, I found saffron used very rarely (only once in seven paellas I sampled) in paellas in Barcelona - perhaps that is something more prevalent in Valencian paella. Both chicken and seafood paellas were mostly flavored with rich brown stock, or squid ink.
The port of Barcelona
Chicken Calamari paella
Chefs cooking Paella at Merendero de la Mari, Barcelona
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